The formation of value in the local productive arrangement (apl) of garments and artifacts made of coloured cotton Fromparaíba-Brazil

Companies in the textile sector have shown great concern with environmental issues, using raw materials that are produced by systems that are less aggressive to the environment. In this context, naturally coloured cotton (ANC) becomes an alternative to reduce the negative environmental impact, since the products do not need to be bleached or dyed, and is attracting the attention of industries and consumers.In Brazil, naturally coloured cotton (ANC) is mainly produced in Paraíba, where there is a Local Productive Arrangement (APL) for clothing and artifacts made of ANC.In this sense, this study aims to verify whether the interorganizational relationships of this APL have contributed to the arrangement’s formation of value and growth. To achieve the proposed aim, data were collected in the State of Paraiba, in the municipalities of Campina Grande, Juarez Távora, São Bento and João Pessoa through interviews, questionnaire and observation. The data, which was collected and analysed using the Content Analysis methodology, indicated that the APL has important groups that are formed with the purpose of adding value. The group formation was observed in almost all links of the agro-industrial productive chain: processing, certification, acquisition of raw material, production, commercialization and export. In addition, it was possible to conclude that these groups are formed from different perceptions about the market for naturally coloured cotton, resulting in the formation of the value of their products and, consequently, in the growth of the APL.